LOS ANGELES

A.O.C. 8022 West Third Street (between Robertson and La Brea); 323-653-6359.

“Bacchus wouldn’t know where to begin” at this Third Street hit with a “wonderful” wine bar and “inventive” French/Med-accented “Californian tapas” affording “drama in every bite.”

FOOD: 26 DECOR: 23 SERVICE: 24 COST: $46

SAN FRANCISCO

ISA 3324 Steiner Street (between Chestnut and Lombard Streets); 415-567-9588.

“Up-and-coming” “wonder chef” Luke Sung’s “parade” of “French tapas” in the Marina “allows you to create your own tasting menu” “where each dish is better than the last.”

FOOD: 26

DECOR: 18

SERVICE: 20

COST: $42

CHICAGO

AVEC 615 W. Randolph Street (Jefferson Street); 312-377-2002.

“Sexy and sophisticated people” say Koren Grieveson’s “merry-go-round of Med” small plates “blows the competition away” at this “stark” West Loop wunderkind that serves “lovely big pours” of “unusual” wines.

FOOD: 26

DECOR: 19

SERVICE: 23

COST: $37

WASHINGTON, D.C.

PALENA 3529 Connecticut Avenue NW (Porter Street); 202-537-9250.

At their “refined” Cleveland Park venue, Frank Ruta’s New American dishes “awaken taste buds you didn’t even know existed,” while Ann Amernick’s “fabulous” desserts are legendary.

FOOD: 25

DECOR: 23

SERVICE: 22

COST: $60

BOSTON

CUCHI CUCHI 795 Main Street, Cambridge; 617-864-2929.

This “festive,” “funky” place near Central Square, which looks “like a favorite grandmother’s attic,” “transforms” the concept of tapas with an eclectic variety of “delicious” “small plates” from around the world.

FOOD: 20

DECOR: 24

SERVICE: 21

COST: $33